China Road

Whenever we're hungry for Chinese food, we head for China Road. http://www.chinaroad-ny.com/index.html It's a bit of a drive for us. Located a little north of Syracuse proper on Route 11 (Brewerton Rd.) in the village of Mattydale, it's near the airport. It's just across the four lane main drag from the Hollywood Cinema, a long-lived, second-run movie house. It's an unassuming place, even a little worn. The building décor is very modest. If you didn't know the best Chinese food outside New York City was inside, you'd pass right by. It has changed little in the past fifteen years or so that we've been eating there.

The front room is small, maybe ten tables with red cloth tablecloths covered with white paper. A larger back room is used for parties. You will always find Simon Teng or his wife Jenny at the cash register. They great every customer with a happy “Hi, how are you.” We often come here on Sunday evening. On most visits the place is nearly full with about half the tables filled by Chinese people: professionals, families and students. Some nights it's very busy and the service a bit slower. Some nights only the front room is open and take-out is the main business. The fantastic food and the friendly atmosphere keep us coming back week after week.

The menu is truly infinite. In addition to a “regular” Chinese menu in English with all items found in nearly every other Chinese restaurant, there is a second menu printed in Chinese with a much longer list of specialities. There are also seasonal specials printed in English and Chinese on white boards in the dining rooms. Then there is the vegetarian menu featuring everything imaginable made from tofu including vegetarian duck, vegetarian beef and vegetarian pork. Finally, there is anything else you can name, made to special order.

We once brought a bunch of workers' comp lawyers from Queens here. After they spent a lot of time looking over all the menu selections, one of them announced his favorite dish from a restaurant in Flushing was not listed. As soon as he mentioned the name of the favored item, Simon the owner, said without hesitation, “I will make for you.” The result was proclaimed “better than in New York City.”

I think some diners are disappointed in China Road because they only order familiar items off the English menu. Those items are good, but not truly special. I suspect Simon and his crew of wok-men are so used to making them that they don't get the same lavish care as some of the less common items with more expensive ingredients.

For an example of the unique cooking coming out of Simon' kitchen stop in during the weeks following Chinese New Years. On the board you will see half a dozen unfamiliar items. Ask the server what they are, then try some of them. Take a chance. Shanghai soup dumplings turn out to be dumplings filled with savory hot soup. Lobster any style is an eye popping disarticulated two pounder with your choice of sauce. There is always something that catches our fancy, then in a few weeks it's gone, at least until next year.

Perhaps the peak experience we've had here is a full Chinese banquet. We couldn't help notice that the groups of Chinese customers often receive items served family style clearly not from the menu. Nearly every Sunday some group has a party in the large room. We would watch as steaming dishes of every kind pass us by. We finally asked Simon about the food for the parties. He explained they are ordered in advance. The number of dishes determines the price.

When one of the members of our book club went on a study tour of China, we decided a celebratory Chinese banquet was in order to welcome her back. The week before the event Merry and I met with Simon to choose the items. We had some favorites, but Simon really set the menu once he knew how much we wanted to spend ($25 per person, I think). The night of the banquet we just sat back as the meal unfolded. On the lazy susan table top appeared three trays of appetizers, two different tureens of soup, a large whole crispy fish in black bean sauce, four more main courses, a mountain of rice and a special dessert. It took us about two hours to eat it all. We could not have feasted better anywhere.

Next time you find yourself hungry in Syracuse, give China Road a try.